Friday, April 22, 2011

Kenyan Observations

Just a couple of cultural differences worth mentioning:

The dress code always errs on the side of formal. If in dought, dress up. Any occasion that brings you to the hospital, whether a visitor or patient, is reason to dress nice. Even if it is an ill-fitting, third hand, dusty sports coat it is dressy and should be worn. I think everyone is confused that Matthew wears scrubs daily (though he was told to bring them). Scrubs here are only worn in the surgery theater by those preforming the procedure. They change out of those scrubs, into their suits and ties, before walking back through the hospital. Everyone from nurses to bus drivers to doctors are better dressed than Matthew and I every day.

A couple of my favorite questions asked while I've been here: “How many tribes are in the United States?”. Its really an interesting question... yes, there are some unique cultures but I don't think it compares with their tribal identity. They are always shocked that I only speak one language and that that is common in the US.

“How much did your husband pay for you when you were married?”. They Kenyans raise a combination of money, crops, and livestock to pay for their bride. They will enter into a contract with a family and spend time raising the money, which is their engagement period. Depending on how beautiful and wealthy and well educated the girl this sum can be as high as $3000 US, which is quite a lot for their standards.

Food: We eat very well at the guest house. Breakfast is pretty international, toast, cereal, boiled eggs and sausage. Lunch and Dinner always brings more food than is necessary. Soup (usually a simple broth), two starches (usually a light pasta dish and potatoes), two meats (chopped beef in a gravy and either chicken or fish), and two vegetables (peas and carrots and a cabbage slaw). Fresh fruit for dessert. No cheese or yougarts. There is warm milk for the cereal at breakfast and in the tea.



Tea is at 10:30 and 4:00. Take your tea, take your time, enjoy it, do not be stressed about all the other tasks you must complete. Its amazing how that instantly becomes trivial and takes a back seat to the matter at hand: tea. Matthew gets frustrated that this is such a priority with nurses serving patients... tea before medications? Really?

Though the finest coffee in the world is grown and roasted in this region of Kenya you won't find it is served among the people. It's far too expensive. Instant is the only option if you prefer coffee. Matthew is surviving quite well. And sleeping much more than normal.

There is an interesting paradox between cleanliness and aesthetics. Everything is cleaned emphatically. Floors are mopped often, sidewalks are scrubbed. Much effort is devoted to keeping the hospital and any general living space clean. However, I can't say the same pride is always taken in construction of the facilities. I don't think a general design aesthetic is ever considered and the craftmanship of building projects is often poor. Paint jobs often reveal huge drips, linoleum tiles are askew with the wall and don't match up (often several un-coordinated tile patterns are used), concrete is poured inconsistantly and unlevel. Resources are obviously available, they just aren't always allocated and put together well. Regardless everything is well worn and used, and mopped and scrubbed.

The Presbyterian Church has a strong hold over the region. It seems 2 of every 3 civic institutions we pass along the roadway are PCEA institutions (Presbyterian Church of East Africa). Chuches, schools, hospitals, orphanages... And they seem to be well used and populated institutions.

Though it rarely gets below 65 degrees here this is still their coolest season which means the winter clothes come out. Kids run around in parkas. Everyone wears sweaters and knit hats. It's crazy.

Everyone here has a cell phone. Unfortunately this culture has not adopted a cell phone etiquette. No one puts their phone on silent. Doctors, students, nurses and patients will answer their phone if it rings, regardless of what they are doing at the time. Very few smart phones.

Yes, our guest house has running water and power. But this is really a temporal condition. The power blinks or simply shuts down for 'rationing' at any time (the hospital has a deisel run generator which is often used). And I haven't figured out why water has become a problem... I see water in the tank behind the guest house... but we have been without water for a few days now. Sometimes everything is working great but often one thing or the other is out of order. An emergency bucket of water is always wise for flushing the toilet or taking a sponge bath.

And my final observation... this is the first place I've ever been where no one has made a comment about my hair.  No one has asked to touch it or inquired if it's naturally curly... nothing.  I think maybe it far too common here to be considered special.

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